Tim and Jon leave Colombia

Having arrived back in the UK some days ago events in Colombia seem a distant way off now. Tim and I worked through the unbelievable heat in El Salado, much to the amusement of the locals, and finished the studio cabin in plenty of time. After a few days Caribbean rest in Cartagena we returned to Bogota where Nick was completing the second set of workshops for 'Hip Hop al Parque' and the 'Orquesta Filarmonica Bogota'.
Alongside Nick was Mike Cerda, a Venezuelan hip hop artist and producer, who worked really well with Nick and we are truly thankful to him. Nick and I also went back to visit CIREC, the charity with whom we were working in El Salado. Although I ad been before I was completely blown away by the work they are doing there when we took a tour of the centre. We have now signed an agreement to work on future projects together, which is an amazing thing for us.
Nick is still out in Colombia teaching classes, and has now been joined by Kary. Unfortunately Tim and I had to come home but hopefully the work we have done will lead to more projects out there. Before I go I need to thank several people who made this trip a success:
Tim Giddings who came out and gave up 3 weeks of his time.
Diego without whom the Bogota build would have been ten times harder.
Angelica for all her hard work.
Richy for giving us a great opportunity and, of course, his hard work.
Alix and the rest of the Boogaloop crew.
Lola for her help and a roof over our heads.
CIREC
Orquesta Filarmonica Bogota
Anyone else I have forgotten.

Armadillo Surprise

Its been a couple of days since we left El Salado for the easier climes of Cartagena -now with added sun- but its memory will last for a long time. Before we arrived people had been telling us that we were going to working in hot, uncomfortable conditions. We didn´t quite realise how difficult the conditions were going to be.
The little building in which we built the studio had newly been refurbished with a tin roof and tiled floor. The tin roof, suffice to say, turned the room into somewhat of an oven. It was ridiculous, we couldn´t even think on the first day of working there. It probably didn´t help much that we were using unfamiliar materials and very few tools to do the job. I mean, we were using wood, but it was somewhat different to what we are used to.
When we arrived we were shown a pile of recently cut wood that we could buy from a local guy. As it wasn´t enough the next morning we put in an order with the guy and he promptly went out to the forest with his chainsaw and cut us the wood we wanted. After a day and half wait the wood was eventually delivered on the back of a donkey. Simple.
Indeed, life is fairly simple in El Salado. You get up early , go about your work and live off the land that is certainly plentiful around there. A lot of people don´t want for much: if they want fruit or veg they pick it, if they want meat they kill an animal or go out and hunt it. We were given a meal of armadillo one evening, nice but a little stringy, which was a first for me. On the subject of food, Tim managed to get a name for himself, as the man that didn´t eat yucca. Yucca is a staple here, like bread or potatoes are to us. When the guy we were staying with, Negro, was told by his wife, Isis, that Tim didn´t eat yucca he exclaimed: "Then what does he eat the? Rats?"
If people want anything else they have to make the trek into town in one of the various battered jeeps that service the community. When we needed glass we put in an order. It took two journeys to eventually get the needed window, the second I had to go and insure that it arrived up the incredibly bumpy track undamaged. Apart from that things went quite smoothly for us, we tried to work when it was a little cooler and siesta around the middle of the day. Only my computer came off badly from the ordeal: it died with an electricity surge.
We got quite used to the easy way of life and the constant noise of animals from before dawn till after dusk. We seemed to be welcomed for the most part with what seemed like half the town popping in to watch us work for a while. They appeared to like what we did and they even lent a hand and killed the deadly snake that was in the garden behind our building: one bite and its death in 2 hours; when the nearest place with anti-venom is about 2 hours away its a risk not worth taking.
All in all it was a successful first part to the mission. One of the lasting images I´ll have of the dusty track main road is Edgar whooping in to town on the back of his horse in the relative cool of late Sunday afternoon. I hope we can leave them with something too.
Back in Bogota Nick has completed his first workshops and has already started his second lot. He informs me that the first group made a pretty good track that we will soon put up on our website.

El Salado

It feels somewhat a privelage to be able to come here and be able to spend time among ther people who work here. As I mentioned before El Salado was subject to an horrific massacre 10 years ago. Paramilitaries came into the town and killed 64 people over 3 days, but it is the manner in which they committed their brutal acts that was so shocking. After they left so did the majority of the people. The town went from a population of around 8000 to around 400. Now there are just over a 1000 people here and charities like CIREC, with whom we are working, are encouraging people to return and trying to ensure that another atrocity does not happen again.
Richy, who invited us here and who is also part of FairTunes Colombia, has been setting up a media program which includes workshops in radio, music and photography. The long term goal is that this can be handed down to the people of El Salado and they can run theri own radio station and have the facilities for other projects as well.
I guess the horror truly hit home the after speaking to 2 different inhabitants, who happen to be cousins. The first was Edgar, a local farmer, who declared to us that he wanted us to hear his story after sharing a few drinks with him one night. Edgar escaped 2 massacres in the town, the 1st in 97 when he was out when the paramilitaries came looking for him. The second time in 2001 he was in town when they came. The paramilitaires killed the 2 friends he was with whilst Edgar fled from house to house as the men came looking for him. Eventually Edgar found a hiding place for three nights in a drain where he lay covered in excrement as he listened to the chaos going on around him. For three days the paramilitaries butchered people, forcing them to line up as they killed ever 30th person, and making the women parade in gross beauty pageants to see who would be raped.
Once some paramilitaries were chasing a chicken and it sought refuge where Edgar was hiding and he thought his time was up, but fortunately the chicken moved away and he remained undetected. Edgar was lucky and he and his family fled but he returned to tend his land and animals, but unfortunately his wife would not return and now he has no contact with the daughter who was born just one month after the massacre.
It was amazing that Edgar wanted to tell us this, the community doctor who was there said that he never talks about what happened to him to anyone. Indeed, many people are afraid to tell outsiders what occured on those dark days for obvious reasons.
Gilbert spoke about the atrocities but was tewarful when he did so. He escaped into the surrounding hills but many of his family were not lucky enough to do so. I will not mention some of the things that Gilbert told us that happened to some of his relatives, they are unspeakable.
Gilbert is now a proactive leader in the community, in charge of the education of young people. He works directly with CIREC and the projects they are undertaking. Hopefully in the future projects such as this will prove to the displaced population of this town that there is no longer anything to fear and that it is possible to build a life without the possibility of being hacked to pieces in front of your own family.

Journey to El Salado

Sometimes a journey can be so eventful that it is hard to piece together chronologically. The road to El Salado is a reasonably long and arduous one; not so much in distance, more in effort and conditions. Indeed the last 25km took over an hour and were, quite honestly, the worst roads I have ever been on. That’s not to belittle the poor conditions of the other roads that we travelled on, but the last leg was certainly memorable.

The trip started out easily enough, we were collected from our sea-front hotel by Hector in his rickety old green Jeep. The trip out of Cartagena took us through a different side of the colonial city from the tourist trap that is the historic centre. On the way out we passed through the bustling popular market aside the bird filled waterway, with pelicans and vultures competing for flotsam and jetsam flung from the dirty market stalls that litter the roadsides.

Out of town the monotony of the journey was broken only by the frequent jolts that shuddered through the ancient vehicle every time we hit a pothole or when Hector swerved out of the way of an oncoming juggernaut. After a couple of hours we made a pit-stop in a village called ‘Villa Alegre’ (Happy Town), never a more inappropriate name has there been, to buy some cigars off a 94 year old woman who needed some money. Apparently the locals call the village ‘Barrio tristeza’ (neighbourhood of unhappiness) and it is easy to see why. The community consists of two opposing lines of tiny houses stretching up the hill into the distance, in between is possibly the poorest excuse for a street that ever there was. The town is inhabited by an exiled community, displaced due to the war that has ravaged the country for decades, and housed by the authorities in the their current dwellings. Unfortunately they have now been forgotten and are so poor that they don’t have the means to return home.

Richy , our guide on this venture, and the charity CIREC are working with this community and are searching for ways to repatriate them to their land and end the painful existence that has been forced upon them. As the kids played happily in the rueful street it was a stark reminder of the human cost of the wars that blight Colombia.

Onward from this brief pit-stop we were taken to a small town called ‘San Jacinto’, which is at the heart of the music of ‘la Gaita’, an indigenous type of flute, that includes the famous Cumbia music. We visited Fran and his family house where he continues to make traditional instruments and promotes the music that has been handed down to him over generations. Fran told us about the intricacies of the music and it became clear how important this tradition is to the local people and the maintenance of their culture. Hopefully we can help Fran out in the preservation of this amazing form of music.

We then went to visit Carmelo Torres, a famous accordion player in Colombia. We sat in his house and listened discs of him and his band. Apparently the accordion arrived in Colombia after a ship laden with the instruments sank off its shores and they were all washed up on the land. The resulting sound that developed among the local musicians is a far cry from the folk playing that we hear back home. Carmelo is a proponent of his local culture that is, unfortunately, dying out with his generation.The kids are now saturated with pop music and are no longer interested in their own heritage, well most of them at least.

After a change of jeep and an additional driver we were onward bound and we found ourselves in Carmen de Bolivar, the region's second city.There we bought some equipment and materials to take up to El Salado whilst our drivers hit the bar in quite spectacular fashion. It was now dark before we head off again up the at times unbelievable muddy track. Credit where it's due the driver did his job well. However, it can be a little unnerving in such occasions when the driver is swigging as much whiskey as you are and is handling it a little less well. Still we arrived safe and sound and are now safely in El Salado and building the studio. I will write more on El Salado but for now, if anyone wants to, you should google the town and find out about the massacre that happened here 10 years ago. Its pretty horrifying.

For now I'll leave with the thought that maybe we can help some of the people that we met on our journey with their mission to preserve their music and culture for future generations.

Another Wet Holiday

There's something about my trips to the Caribbean that don't quite match the archetypal holiday away in the tropics. The first time I was in the region was a number of years ago in Cuba when, as chance would have it, there was a cyclone. Here in the Colombian Caribbean city of Cartagena things are not so different. I have been well informed that it is winter here, despite the considerable heat and stifling humidity, due to the fact that there happens to be a lot of water falling from the sky. Ridiculous amounts in fact, in tropical storm proportions.
So our one day holiday by the sea has been somewhat scuppered before our journey to El Salado today. Before we head off proper we have to go and collect some materials from the market here in Cartagena. Our journey will take at least 4 hours in jeep and is supposedly an arduous one.
Nick is back in Bogota teaching the last day of his first set of workshops, the feedback was good when I was there, the kids seemed really happy.

Hip Hop al Parque

Well eventually, and with a considerable amount of effort, we have just about finished building the studio in Bogota. At this very moment Nick is teaching the first workshop in our new studio for the benefit of kids who are involved with the 'Hip Hop al Parque' festival, which is going to some great effort to insure that there is some sort of lasting benefit for the deprived youth of the city. The festival is run by the 'Orquesta Filarmonica de Bogota' in conjunction with the local Mayor, and is a great chance for youth across the city to learn from music professionals in a number of organised workshops.
The conference that we did on Friday was fantastic. Despite our initial nerves in presenting our project in Spanish to a group of kids that come for truly difficult backgrounds, we managed to pull it off. The kids were really interested in what we are offering and the session ended up in a dialogue between them and Nick about music production we me somewhere in the middle translating. Better still is that a number of these kids are going to be attending our workshops.
I suppose it is somewhat indicative of the desire that some of these kids have to learn more about studio production for their own music that they even turn up at all. Most, or all, of them come from areas where they have nothing and live under constant threat of violence from paramilitary organisations that operate in the marginal areas of the city. Giving up their time that could be spent earning a little money shows what music means to them and demonstrates the positive effect that it can have on their lives.
We have also been taking in some music this weekend, enjoying the local group 'Papaya Republik' as well as lots of 'Gypsy Cumbia', a local fusion of Gypsy punk and native Cumbia rhythms. Now that the work is finished Tim and are relaxing for a couple of days before the second leg of our journey whilst, for Nick, the hard work has just started.

Arc Eye Welders

Well we're knackered but things are moving along nicely now. In fact we are getting to a point where the studio is not far off being installed with equipment. A good job too seeing that it has to be ready by Monday morning. We are working long hours without much respite but, thanks to Tim and Diego, the relentless work is starting to see good results. Due to the fact that we are inside building day in day out, at time it seems like we could be anywhere. However, as soon as I lift the shutter to the building and poke my head out and look left up the street, the magnificence of the Andean peaks that loom over the city remind you exactly where you are.
Bogota's weather is strangely reminiscent of home, albeit on an extreme level. The mornings generally seem to start off with beautiful sunshine but, by midday, we are usually entertained with the thunderous sound of torrential rain slamming into the corrugated roof above our heads. The smog doesn't help either; locked into the city streets by the ever-present mountains to the east.
We are getting there though and today the main building should be finished and we will be on to the soft furnishing stage. Yesterday our day was interrupted by a pair of welders who were in the building installing some steelwork. To say that their methods are a little different to what we are used to to would be an understatement. They came in , hooked a couple of cables, literally, into the mains and began welding staring straight into the arc of the of the weld without goggles. Its quite difficult to fathom the conditions some people are willing to work in, but then, health and safety are hardly top priorities over here.
Nick arrived a couple of days ago and he already started to get hold of equipment and install programs onto the computer. Today we have to speak at a conference for Hip Hop al Parque introducing FairTunes to 150 kids from the barrio's as well as officials from the city and festival leaders. Neither of us are really known for our public speaking so I'm looking forward to it being over really. Then we can get back to setting up the studio.